Murasaki

Opening at 21:00, Murasaki in Kamiuma, Setagaya Ward, is a dependable late-night retreat for solid izakaya cooking and drinks. A staple first order among regulars is the shimesaba (cured mackerel). Pickled only after an order is placed to keep the flesh delicate and fresh, the mackerel is traditionally enjoyed here dipped in seasoned vinegar soy sauce.

From the grill, the yakitori is skewed fresh to order and charred until fragrant, with crisp salt seasoning bringing out the chicken's juices, though sampling both salt and sweet-savory tare sauce is part of the appeal. Beyond the grill, side dishes such as gizzard sashimi, deeply pickled nukazuke (rice-bran pickles), and simmering nikudofu (beef and tofu hotpot) provide steady accompaniment across varied drinks.

The dining area pairs counter seats with traditional low tables, holding onto an unvarnished Showa-era mood. A focused master runs the kitchen with craftsman precision, while the presence of a karaoke machine gives the room an easygoing, relaxed edge. Note that payment is cash only, so keep currency on hand before settling in.